Friday, July 31, 2009

A Long Weekend at Ayuthaya Ruins

Ayuthaya Historical Park was a recent long weekend trip. We decided to hop on the night train, and after four lovely hours as the center of entertainment for the workers in the food cart, we were off to our bunks and woke up in the morning at our destination. The old city is actually a natural island formed by the convergence of two rivers, so a short short tuk tuk ride over the main bridge and we were at our hotel, and in no time off to explore ruins. Ayuthaya was the capital of the largest and strongest kingdoms prior to modern day Thailand, from 1350 to 1767 before being taken over by the Burmese. It is not as manicured nor as aesthetically pleasing as Sukhothai (way to much garbage, way too many mangy dogs, and more crowded as the city spills into the ruins), but it is still quite impressive, and is more important in terms of Thai royal history. An interesting anecdote from the locals is that the the current Queen Sirikit had a vision that she was the incarnation of queen Suriyothai of Ayuthaya, and what emerged from her initial vision is a well-produced movie trilogy which includes The Legend of Suriyothai (Francis Ford Coppola), King Naresuan, and a third movie now in production. But we didn't spend too much time with the royal history, preferring instead to explore the ruins, temples, and Buddha images. The picture above is from a Wat Phra Si Sanphet, the most distinctive Ayuthaya style architecture, since most other structures borrow heavily from others in the region, especially Sukhothai and the Khmer. The reclined Buddha is one of the most visited of the old city.

We went during the most important two days for Buddhists to visit temples: the end of the Rain Retreat, or Buddhist Lent as it is commonly known to foreigners. Thais come from all over to visit some of the more important temples and monasteries, like the one here, Wat Mongkhon Bophit. This houses one of the largest bronze cast Buddha images in Thailand. Since this is the most auspicious two days to visit temple, in Buddhist terms, we made a ton of merit. There was no organized service, so everyone going to the temple were doing his or her own thing. It was interesting to try to get my head around how many things were going on at once. First, a whole service sector of food and refreshments cropped up, and well as an entire market selling all kinds of items and products, some religious - like candles, incense and Buddha amulets - some not. Then there were people praying, lighting incense, getting blessings from monks, and some buying and selling of lottery tickets (!?).

Like many other major city states, Ayuthaya prides itself in acquiring important Buddha images from around the region as a testament to fortune, power, and prestige. Wat Phra Mehn (Meru) is home to one of the most beautiful images I've seen in Thailand (apart from my all-time favorites of the Sukhothai period, which I hope to write about next month). Below is thought to be a 1300 year old sitting image in Dvaravati style originating in Ceylon (Sri Lanka).
Two distinct aspects are the facial features, particularly the nose and lips, and the sitting posture, very rare among Siamese Buddha images.

I don't include very much of Ayuthaya Buddha images because many of them were destroyed. When the Burmese took over, they sometimes cut off the heads of Buddhas or melt them down for the gold. Others just deteriorated with time. Left is what remains of a Buddha image after the tree roots get the best of it at Wat Phra Mahathat (this temple built by King Naresuan 14th Century).

We had a pleasant time riding around parts of the old city on bicycles, until we had to cave in to the heat, at which point we took respite in the lovely coffee shop and pool of one of the nicest little boutique hotels I've ever stayed in, The Iudia. Yes, feast your eyes below on our wonderful view, right on the river and facing the ruins!

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Little David Honduras Stands Firm Against Goliath

"No one can make me resign if I do not violate the laws of the country. If there is any invasion ... 7.5 million Hondurans will be ready to defend our territory and our laws and our homeland and our government."
-Michelleti, Interim President of Honduras

The world is witnessing a familiar story: DAVID vs GOLIATH.

Honduras stands firm against the pressures and threats of the world. The U.N., O.A.S., and much of the mainstream media calls Zeleya's ouster an undemocratic military coup. But Honduras' interim President, the congress, all major parties (included Zelaya's own party), the Supreme Court, the electoral council, the attorney general, the military, the majority of people, along with Catholic and evangelical leaders disagree.

You already know how the mainstream media has characterized this: as a 'coup' of the state, undemocratic, and 'illegal.'
Actually, reporting has been appalling (as many Hondurans will aver); no reporters are going to the country. For example: Tens of thousands of protesters wearing white have come out all over the country in favor of Zelaya's arrest as democratic, but not one report about these peaceful marches has been fully covered outside Honduran press.

The majority of people in these marches as well as the current leaders claim Zelaya's arrest was sanctioned and ordered by the main governing bodies of the country: the supreme court, the constitution, and the congress; and that Zelaya's arrest has safeguarding democratic order and process. The military was simply following the orders of these governing bodies. In fact, every governing body in Honduras remains intact - except that Zelaya is out. If this is a 'coup,' then it certainly has none of the characteristics of a classic coup: it has not disrupted democratic order or the governing bodies, or the constitution, at all. On the contrary, Zelaya's arrest has served to safeguard democratic order from a leader who repeatedly defied the Honduran law and constitution.

I am from the Bay Islands of Honduras, and I want to share with you the majority of Hondura perspective on this, because the media has been biased and lopsided, and further, has misrepresented basic facts and this has led to wrongful and premature condemnation.

The majority of Hondurans are proud their country is standing up for its laws and constitution. Zelaya popular support has dropped somewhere between 25-30% in the opinion polls (see Reuters, AP, La Prensa.hn, etc. although it wasn't much better before). Zelaya attempted what was perceived as a power grab. Chavez coached Zelaya on how to try to get around what congress, the supreme court, etc. would not let him do - extend the term limit - so he forced an 'opinion' vote. This vote was deemed illegal by the governing bodies. The congress voted unanimously, and even had the O.A.S. observe and legitimate the decision. Because Zelaya would not cease in seeking what was branded an illegal vote ("la cuarta urna") by all governing bodies, Zelaya put himself squarely outside the law and the constitution. He was warned repeatedly to stop, but he continued to act above the law. Finally, the supreme court demanded his arrest, backed by the attorney general and congress, and the military obeyed.

What would America do if Bush (or Obama) tried to run a referendum to build support for a third term to presumably give himself more power, a referendum deemed illegal by the Constitution and the Supreme Court, against the Federal Election Committee and the Attorney General? On top of going against Congress and the majority of voters, even his own party? And you find out it was financed all along by Chavez? This is exactly what happened in Honduras.

How can the world justify telling Honduras what their law should be? saying it is 'illegal'? that By whose standards? They ARE abiding by THEIR laws. The US has a constitution that its leaders respect. Even Bush, for all his unpopular decisions, had to respect the decisions of congress and seek their support. For example, if Bush had gone to war with Iraq without congress, he would have committed an illegal act. So with Zelaya. How can you have a democracy without following the constitution or the rule of law? Is democracy that shallow? Even if Zelaya is 're-instituted,' as the international community seems to desire, since he has no institutional support, he will be unable, practically, to govern. What message about democratic process will that give to the world, to take back a president who was taken out of office for defying the laws of the land? We already know from our history lessons what happens when you force-impose a president nobody wants. Remember the mess in Haiti? When the international community forced Aristide back into power, the country deteriorated into chaos. Aristide, same as Zelaya, had no support with governing institutions or the majority of people.

And think of the irony: Obama was slow to condemn Iran, but reactionary against Honduras? I cannot understand. Even if you can understand the caution with Iran, doesn't Honduran law and democracy and will also deserve the same caution?

David may be up against Goliath - a Goliath of international condemnation and threats. But in David's slingshot there is a deadly pebble: the will of the Honduran people. With his tiny pebble David can bring down this Goliath.

... With time, that is, to sway public opinion. Let's hope Honduras is not invaded before it gets to shoot the sling.

At the very least, people should be informed of the majority perspective before making a judgment on this fragile democracy. Honduras needs to hold out long enough for the facts to come to light, and the international community softens its tone with informed positions.

-aj.Daeng

Please keep Honduras in your thoughts and prayers.

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Below are resources for further information. I will update this as I can.

A compilation of reports, updates, resources. (last updated August 31)

Letter to the Citizen's of the World from the Foreign Minister of Honduras.