Buddhism and Christianity Course Coming Together

Not often do you see a group of Buddhist monks in church in Thailand, but that was the privilege of our Buddhist and Christianity course a few weeks ago (left). Christian students also had the chance to visit the temple at the end of the Buddhist Lent, accompanied by the same monks. This was all made possible through the Buddhism and Christianity course I am co-teaching with Rev. John Butt, this year with the help of intern Charlie Carstens from Harvard Divinity School. This is the second year I have been involved in the course, and it has been great fun. Each year has been different; last year John arranged for a guest once a week to speak from the Buddhist community. This year however, I was determined to get current and prospective Christian leaders from our program and monks together in the same classroom space. Thanks to meeting ajan Steve Epstein at Mahachulalonghorn University at Wat Suan Dok, we were able to make it happen. The result was six wonderful gatherings together. It was a learning experience for all of us.

Inter-religious dialogue can be difficult. We were careful to set the right tone, to have comparable goals without forcing conformity, to pose the right questions, to moderate discussions well while encouraging student interaction. In one session, for instance, we discussed how 'GOD' and 'DHAMMA' (or DHARMA) might be two ways of talking about ultimate transcendent truth and reality, but withheld making any definite assertions about whether they refer to the same reality. We also had to, for example, agree that engaging in inter-religious dialogue is desirable and worthy in itself, and not simply a subordinated means to another goal - whether that goal is convincing someone to put on a saffron robe, or just to learn useful facts about another religion ... All this really takes practice, as we came to find out very quickly that the Christian students had very little experience talking about their faith outside the circles of their tradition. As a first time venture for many, I think our dialogue went quite well.
There were perhaps some apprehensions at the onset about a hidden agenda to proselytize the other, especially since the monks sometimes have evangelical Christians who come to their tri-weekly monk chats expressly to 'save their souls.' Yet in the end, there was perhaps at least the seeds of conversion, if conversion is expanded to mean not simply changing one's faith tradition, but being open to transformation through the sharing of faith - and allowing one's faith to be challenged and even changed in conversation with others. All in all we had representatives from the Americas and all over south east Asia: Cambodia (where most of monks were from), Laos, Burma, Vietnam, and of course Thailand from Jewish, Christian, and Buddhist traditions. Thanks for all for such a warm experience.

A Long Weekend at Ayuthaya Ruins

Ayuthaya Historical Park was a recent long weekend trip. We decided to hop on the night train, and after four lovely hours as the center of entertainment for the workers in the food cart, we were off to our bunks and woke up in the morning at our destination. The old city is actually a natural island formed by the convergence of two rivers, so a short short tuk tuk ride over the main bridge and we were at our hotel, and in no time off to explore ruins. Ayuthaya was the capital of the largest and strongest kingdoms prior to modern day Thailand, from 1350 to 1767 before being taken over by the Burmese. It is not as manicured nor as aesthetically pleasing as Sukhothai (way to much garbage, way too many mangy dogs, and more crowded as the city spills into the ruins), but it is still quite impressive, and is more important in terms of Thai royal history. An interesting anecdote from the locals is that the the current Queen Sirikit had a vision that she was the incarnation of queen Suriyothai of Ayuthaya, and what emerged from her initial vision is a well-produced movie trilogy which includes The Legend of Suriyothai (Francis Ford Coppola), King Naresuan, and a third movie now in production. But we didn't spend too much time with the royal history, preferring instead to explore the ruins, temples, and Buddha images. The picture above is from a Wat Phra Si Sanphet, the most distinctive Ayuthaya style architecture, since most other structures borrow heavily from others in the region, especially Sukhothai and the Khmer. The reclined Buddha is one of the most visited of the old city.

We went during the most important two days for Buddhists to visit temples: the end of the Rain Retreat, or Buddhist Lent as it is commonly known to foreigners. Thais come from all over to visit some of the more important temples and monasteries, like the one here, Wat Mongkhon Bophit. This houses one of the largest bronze cast Buddha images in Thailand. Since this is the most auspicious two days to visit temple, in Buddhist terms, we made a ton of merit. There was no organized service, so everyone going to the temple were doing his or her own thing. It was interesting to try to get my head around how many things were going on at once. First, a whole service sector of food and refreshments cropped up, and well as an entire market selling all kinds of items and products, some religious - like candles, incense and Buddha amulets - some not. Then there were people praying, lighting incense, getting blessings from monks, and some buying and selling of lottery tickets (!?).

Like many other major city states, Ayuthaya prides itself in acquiring important Buddha images from around the region as a testament to fortune, power, and prestige. Wat Phra Mehn (Meru) is home to one of the most beautiful images I've seen in Thailand (apart from my all-time favorites of the Sukhothai period, which I hope to write about next month). Below is thought to be a 1300 year old sitting image in Dvaravati style originating in Ceylon (Sri Lanka).
Two distinct aspects are the facial features, particularly the nose and lips, and the sitting posture, very rare among Siamese Buddha images.

I don't include very much of Ayuthaya Buddha images because many of them were destroyed. When the Burmese took over, they sometimes cut off the heads of Buddhas or melt them down for the gold. Others just deteriorated with time. Left is what remains of a Buddha image after the tree roots get the best of it at Wat Phra Mahathat (this temple built by King Naresuan 14th Century).

We had a pleasant time riding around parts of the old city on bicycles, until we had to cave in to the heat, at which point we took respite in the lovely coffee shop and pool of one of the nicest little boutique hotels I've ever stayed in, The Iudia. Yes, feast your eyes below on our wonderful view, right on the river and facing the ruins!

Little David Honduras Stands Firm Against Goliath

"No one can make me resign if I do not violate the laws of the country. If there is any invasion ... 7.5 million Hondurans will be ready to defend our territory and our laws and our homeland and our government."

-Michelleti, Interim President of Honduras

The world is witnessing a familiar story: DAVID vs GOLIATH.

Honduras stands firm against the pressures and threats of the world. The U.N., O.A.S., and much of the mainstream media calls Zeleya's ouster an undemocratic military coup. But Honduras' interim President, the congress, all major parties (included Zelaya's own party), the Supreme Court, the electoral council, the attorney general, the military, the majority of people, along with Catholic and evangelical leaders disagree.

You already know how the mainstream media has characterized this: as a 'coup' of the state, undemocratic, and 'illegal.' Actually, reporting has been appalling (as many Hondurans will aver); no reporters are going to the country. For example: Tens of thousands of protesters wearing white have come out all over the country in favor of Zelaya's arrest as democratic, but not one report about these peaceful marches has been fully covered outside Honduran press.

The majority of people in these marches as well as the current leaders claim Zelaya's arrest was sanctioned and ordered by the main governing bodies of the country: the supreme court, the constitution, and the congress; and that Zelaya's arrest has safeguarding democratic order and process. The military was simply following the orders of these governing bodies. In fact, every governing body in Honduras remains intact - except that Zelaya is out. If this is a 'coup,' then it certainly has none of the characteristics of a classic coup: it has not disrupted democratic order or the governing bodies, or the constitution, at all. On the contrary, Zelaya's arrest has served to safeguard democratic order from a leader who repeatedly defied the Honduran law and constitution.

I am from the Bay Islands of Honduras, and I want to share with you the majority of Hondura perspective on this, because the media has been biased and lopsided, and further, has misrepresented basic facts and this has led to wrongful and premature condemnation.

The majority of Hondurans are proud their country is standing up for its laws and constitution. Zelaya popular support has dropped somewhere between 25-30% in the opinion polls (see Reuters, AP, La Prensa.hn, etc. although it wasn't much better before). Zelaya attempted what was perceived as a power grab. Chavez coached Zelaya on how to try to get around what congress, the supreme court, etc. would not let him do - extend the term limit - so he forced an 'opinion' vote. This vote was deemed illegal by the governing bodies. The congress voted unanimously, and even had the O.A.S. observe and legitimate the decision. Because Zelaya would not cease in seeking what was branded an illegal vote ("la cuarta urna") by all governing bodies, Zelaya put himself squarely outside the law and the constitution. He was warned repeatedly to stop, but he continued to act above the law. Finally, the supreme court demanded his arrest, backed by the attorney general and congress, and the military obeyed.

What would America do if Bush (or Obama) tried to run a referendum to build support for a third term to presumably give himself more power, a referendum deemed illegal by the Constitution and the Supreme Court, against the Federal Election Committee and the Attorney General? On top of going against Congress and the majority of voters, even his own party? And you find out it was financed all along by Chavez? This is exactly what happened in Honduras.

How can the world justify telling Honduras what their law should be? saying it is 'illegal'? that By whose standards? They ARE abiding by THEIR laws. The US has a constitution that its leaders respect. Even Bush, for all his unpopular decisions, had to respect the decisions of congress and seek their support. For example, if Bush had gone to war with Iraq without congress, he would have committed an illegal act. So with Zelaya. How can you have a democracy without following the constitution or the rule of law? Is democracy that shallow? Even if Zelaya is 're-instituted,' as the international community seems to desire, since he has no institutional support, he will be unable, practically, to govern. What message about democratic process will that give to the world, to take back a president who was taken out of office for defying the laws of the land? We already know from our history lessons what happens when you force-impose a president nobody wants. Remember the mess in Haiti? When the international community forced Aristide back into power, the country deteriorated into chaos. Aristide, same as Zelaya, had no support with governing institutions or the majority of people.

And think of the irony: Obama was slow to condemn Iran, but reactionary against Honduras? I cannot understand. Even if you can understand the caution with Iran, doesn't Honduran law and democracy and will also deserve the same caution?

David may be up against Goliath - a Goliath of international condemnation and threats. But in David's slingshot there is a deadly pebble: the will of the Honduran people. With his tiny pebble David can bring down this Goliath.

... With time, that is, to sway public opinion. Let's hope Honduras is not invaded before it gets to shoot the sling.

At the very least, people should be informed of the majority perspective before making a judgment on this fragile democracy. Honduras needs to hold out long enough for the facts to come to light, and the international community softens its tone with informed positions.

-aj.Daeng

Please keep Honduras in your thoughts and prayers.

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Below are resources for further information. I will update this as I can.

A compilation of reports, updates, resources. (last updated August 31)

Letter to the Citizen's of the World from the Foreign Minister of Honduras.

Hua Hin Beach: Noon, Dawn and Dusk

Noon, dawn, and dusk photos from a recent weekend in Hua Hin, favorite getaway of the King and Queen of Thailand. Hua Hin is popular with the Bangkok crowd, as it's only a few hours drive away. At Dawn: Monks back from the alms walk toward the Buddha Image (above).

At Noon: We stayed away from Hua Hin in Takiap, 5 kilometers south. Within walking distance is the little hill with the standing Buddha, and nearby is the fishing center, fresh fish markets, and net weavers. In the midday hours the tide was low enough and the sand solid enough for us to bike the entire length of the beach up to Hua Hin, refreshing ourselves with food and drink along the way. Of course the fresh seafood is amazing, better than any I've had in Thailand so far.
At Dusk: The rising tide prepares the fishing and squid boats for a night outing, while boys play football.

Alba, Wine Country

Alba, in Northwestern Italy, was a nice place to unwind and uncork from the intensity of my few days in Rome. And what an uncorking it was, literally! The area around Alba is known for wine and its gorgeous countryside that still maintains the feel of the small city-states of old: each hill having a town, topped with a castle, with a sea of vineyard fields flowing out to the foot of the next hill town. Some of the wines we tried in the area included dolcetto, barbera, barberesco, nebiolo and barolo.The Corkscrew Museum with the Barolo castle shown in the reflection.

I can't talk about Italy without mentioning food. Italians have one way and one way only to eat: their way. One evening when I asked for coffee along with dessert I was curtly informed of the Italian eating sequence by the waiter: "Absolutely NOT. No drinking espresso with gelato! I will bring it after you finish ..." But I am happy to eat and drink by the rules: dress up when you go out, order vino spumante first, then several courses, dessert, have coffee (after!), and take a really long time dining. All fine by me! I'm happy to abide by any rules that involve more food, drink, lounging and looking good!









The little dog above is excited about the cheeses and ice cream. That's pretty much how I felt! except I was a little better, I hope, at not showing it quite so much.

Total weight gained on the trip from the Islands to Italy: 4 pounds. It was worth every single bitty ounce of goodness! I even as much as ventured to try carne cruda (and that was my first and will be my only time).

Thanks to DrH and many others again for making the trip possible.

At Last Italy, We Meet in Rome

Rome: amazing food, drink, art, churches, ruins. What could be better? My friends and I have known for a long time that Italy and I are soulmates of sorts who'd never met. We've finally gotten a chance to meet for the first time, starting in Rome. Starting in Rome is a myriad of wonders. Rome is at once romantic - at every corner, history; behind every nook, beauty - and, like the old days, a circus spectacle, a clash of tourists and charged locals that is inevitable once a city has become the numero uno most visited place on earth. And who wouldn't want stare in awe at the Colosseum? And stand inside the sheer enormity of it, imagining when almost two thousand years ago, people inside cheered on gladiators or the latest Christian being torn apart by a lion?

There's no way to describe Rome, I can but give a taste with my impression, and hope people aren't sick of hearing about the plazas and the Caravaggios and Da Vincis and the crypts. Here are a few favorites.

The Pantheon (above). I was impressed by this great concrete dome that stood alone for so long, and how they pulled off such a huge and ambitious architectural project. It was later taken over by Christians of course, and is used to house tombs - like Raphael's.

Some things in the Vatican Museum worth mentioning. In terms of classical sculpture, The Laocoon and his Sons, and Apollo in the Belvedere garden of the Vatican Museum (above). All photographs posted are taken by me or DrH, so this shot doesn't capture the full frontal complexity of the Laocoon, but you can see how amazing it is. You can also understand from the sensitive facial expressions why there is controversy about whether it is in fact classical or whether Michelangelo is the real secret sculptor after all.
There are two Raphael paintings I want to share. The first is Raphael's The School of Athens. I've been waiting to see this painting for a long time now. I preached one of my first sermons at the Boston Temple using it as an illustration, with Plato and Aristotle's argument about where to find truth. I changed that be where to look for God: Plato pointing up to the forms, and Aristotle pointing to down around us.
The other is Raphael's painting of The Ascension which I couldn't stop looking at. With two centers, what is most moving to me is the woman. my eyes go right to her pose and her blue robe, blue being the most expensive paint, a sign of importance. She exemplifies faith by being calm, bold and courageous through the confusion of doubt and fear.

Then there is the Sistine Chapel, which needless to say, is amazing. I know because if it weren't so, the crowd of people would have driven me insane (so many people! so loud!). Below is the most famous anthropomorphic creation story, The Creation of Adam, God touching fingers with Adam to bring him to life. (My favorite character representation is the oracle of Delphic Sibyl.)

On to St. Peter's Basilica. St. Peter's is so loaded with art of all kinds, relics, and tombs of great leaders at every corner wing and on every wall as far as your neck allows you to look up, you hardly even notice its interior magnitude. It's hard to imagine worshiping inside a church with 60,000 other believers (its capacity!).

Two more sculptures that I'm still thinking about: one is in the Basilica, Michelangelo's La Pietà. The Virgin looks so young and natural, yet powerful holding her son's body (below, left).

The other is Bernini's The Ecstasy of St. Theresa in the little church of Santa Maria della Vittoria (above, right). Those facial expressions, an almost mischievous angel, and well, the Ecstasy of Theresa! Need I say more? I'll go back in a second and just visit churches and ruins, and of course eat and drink. Soulmates!? A very special thanks to DrH for making it possible.

Easter Weekend Beaching in Bonnaca

In mainland, mostly Catholic Honduras, Easter is filled with religious celebrations, processions, flowers, as should be at the height of the most important Christian holiday. The whole country closes down for Semana Santa. But on The Bay Islands in the Caribbean which is mostly Protestant, the dominant mode of celebration is going to the beach. Days and days of beaching! Days and days of local food and music, celebrating with friends and family. It's the time of year islanders living all over the world 'come home.' It's also a time for those who live in the mainland to get in a beach holiday. It's been years and years since I've had a chance to spend Easter at home.
I'm very grateful I got to get there this year. Here's a few pictures, and a favorite Soca style song from our local Roatan band, Sherman and the Boys:

[Listening may require Quicktime plug-in and settings]

Chiang Mai Dinner with Friends & Teachers

A picture of a lovely dinner this last year with my former professor Donald Swearer, Director of the Center for the Study of World Religions at Harvard Divinity School, along with his wife Nancy Swearer, Adam and Naoko. Professor Swearer recommended Adam and I to our currents posts in Chiang Mai, Thailand, for which we are very grateful. How I was first persuaded into his Buddhism course is a funny story for another time :)

Here is the full copy of the Newsletter for those interested.

Ecumenical Retreat 2009 in Nakhon Patom, Thailand

Last month senior students and staff joined an annual Ecumenical Retreat between various Protestant and Catholic Christian theological schools throughout Thailand. It was mostly meant for students to promote mutual understanding and cooperation between Christians groups. We were happy to have groups from all across the denominational spectrum. The Seventh-Day Adventists from Mission College did not join, or come to 'observe' as is sometimes preferred over officially participating. The organizers had spend much time and effort to get them involved last year, so that was a disappointment. Other than that drawback, it was a success. Some time was spent in conference style lectures and discussions. And of course prayer and meditation. The retreat was hosted at lovely grounds of the Catholic guesthouse and retreat center, Baan Phu Waan.We also had the chance to visit some of the different orders and ministries in the surrounding area. One was a house of sisters from the Capuchin tradition. The nuns do not take drop in visitors, so people coming with prayer petitions speak into the wood cylinder below the picture of St. Clare while spinning it so the sound goes to a nun on the other side.

The sisters made a special exception for us and came out to the visiting hall to greet us. Still, we were separated by bars. We didn't quite know what to make of this at first. They knew we would ask about it, and they quickly explained it was a symbolic separation - and protection - between them and the world, holy and unholy, ordinary and sacred spaces. This photo is with the head mother. Some of the nuns had been there for decades, some were just coming in, as young as 14 years old. We were also interested to know that a good majority of the Catholics we met were from the Karen ethnic minority. It's quite something that these women are willing to go into the order with little contact with the world and dedicate their lives to prayer and meditation.
On our way there and back we made a number of excursions, I'll just mention one: Above, is The Church of Saint Joseph, the oldest Catholic Church in Thailand, a lovely yellow church facing the Chao Phraya river in Ayutthaya.

2009 New Year in Singapore

So I spent a few days in Singapore to pass the new year. This was my first time, and I'm glad to have also met up with friends of friends and my housemate Jloh and her family. This picture is with the "durian dome." Doesn't it look like a huge durian?
The diverse cultures that makes Singapore special was really something for such a small place. Although the majority of people are from Chinese backgrounds, they really try not to give preference to one ethnic group or language. I like to navigate the diversity through sacred spaces and, of course, food!
Here is a Chinese temple, and the rubbing of the belly of a Bodhisattva for good luck. Naturally, with the coming new year, the temples were crazy full of people praying, giving offerings, and burning incense.

This is a statue of the Hindu God/dess Kali in little India doing her destroyer thing.
The little place I stayed in was a family owned spot (they were so warm!) near Bugis station in the Malay-Muslim side of town. Right down the street was this beautiful mosque (below).

There seems to be two big things to do in Singapore: eat and shop. Now every big city has a variety of food choices. But compared to other cities in the region, Singapore excels and is unique for the restaurants and food joints that specialize in and master a specific dish. And locals go out to the many restaurants and eateries to eat a particular dish or two. It goes something like: "We'll go to this place in Chinatown for the best chicken rice," and "To this noodle stand for the best seafood soup," "let's go to Zam Zam's for the best moktabar and biryani." (Which was fortunately right in my neighborhood so I went twice. As for the chicken rice, I tried a few pieces, the best I could do, and yes, it was amazing! I decided to emphasize the 'flexible' in my flexitarianism and be let by locals for this trip. Below are JLoh's pics of Zam Zam's biryani, and Chinese rice chicken, veggies and sauces.)

As for the second big pastime, shopping, well, I'm not a big fan! That IS a problem, since there are more malls and shopping centers crammed into the city than you can imagine. Really. Malls in the lobbies of hotels, malls in the subway, malls every other building! And all as air-conditioned and as interconnected as possible, which after three days made things feel artificial.

I should mention that I was starved for art so Jloh and I went to some decent museums. Notable was a powerful and sober photo commentary by Chien-Chi Chang. One part documented the explosion of 'buying' brides through marriages of Taiwanese men and Vietnamese women. Others included looking at migrant workers in Chinatown New York.

Luckily, the crowds and shopping centered-ness didn't burned me out until just before I left for the airport, so the trip was really fun, and its always nice to meet new people.
Happy New Year to all. Bring in the Year of the Ox!