Merry Christmas, from Texas

This Christmas season finds me in the Hill Country area of central Texas, visiting family. It's certainly the most beautiful part of the Lone Star state, and being around Austin means it's fairly politically progressive. And I knew I had reached Austin because they had a live blues/country band playing right in center of the airport! They love their live music around here. I got a picture of these cacti dressed up for Christmas outside a local taco spot.

It was also great to see family and friends in a short layover in the LA area. There's so much to be thankful for this year--my friends, family, students, strangers in Thailand ... Merry Christmas, and God bless!

Here's a nice Christmas song for you. It's late Freddy Fender's "It's Christmas Time in Texas." Gotta miss him. Tex-Mex is loads of fun! 'La Navidad ya llego!'

Click play above, or
Click to hear music file

Happy 80th to King Bhumipol

Today is the King's 80th birthday, I wanted to wish him well. It's a pretty huge deal here in Thailand as people love and adore this particular king, and part of the way they show it is to wear a 'yellow shirt,' especially on Mondays (the Queen has a 'blue shirt' people wear on Fridays). Well, I was reluctant to get one--they're so yellow! among other things that will go unmentioned ... But a student was raising money for an orphanage and got me to buy a Christianized yellow shirt--since Christians love the Buddhist king too. Yes, the right sleeve says "God Bless Thailand." And there is the white cross and the Christian fish symbol as well. A little over the top but hey! It was for a good cause ... Another plus is that it's only socially acceptable for women to wear pants to work with a yellow or blue shirt, so I get they added bonus of wearing pants on Mondays!

Mr. Chorn in Thailand

Last week a friend from college came to visit for a few days. We've been calling him 'Chorn' (Mr. Spoon). As requested, I finally posted some of his pics! Mr. Chorn with the Elephants. I keep a healthy distance--they're so big and scary! I rode an elephant once in Loas, and touched a baby one, but that's enough for me.
Here's one painting. It's really amazing how brilliant these creatures are. If anyone wants me to send them a painting by an elephant, let me know. Some are quite good. As for Chorn, he took home paper made from elephant dung ... hummm. A Spirit-House at a rooftop hangout spot.

The Sunday night market. Chorn loved it. I get overwhelmed after the first hour.

He managed to get a pic of ajD shopping around.

These are from a day trip to Chiang Dao, a holy mountain in northern Thailand. Below is the entrance to the Chiang Dao Cave:

Did we really fit through that tiny hole? Chorn! Did you get stuck!?!

Stairway to the Wat on Chiang Doi mountain, and the Wat below.

Khun Sa's House

A few weeks ago one of the world most wanted drug kingpins from the Golden Triangle, Khun Sa, died in Burma. I went up to his old house where he ran his operations a few months ago. There's talk of renovating his old compound now that he's dead--even talk of turning it into a tourist trap of sorts. I wanted to show a few pics of what it looks like before anything dramatic changes.

Khun Sa's camp is in a Shan village up in the mountains, and is extremely difficult to find, first of all. But thanks to J and Pornsak we managed to find it. When we got to the village there was nobody there, but some kids playing football told us to go right in. the place looked like it had hardly been touched since he left. Part of the house was used as a kind of museum commemorating heroes who have fought for an independent Shan state located primarily in Burma. There were old maps, and paintings of leaders in traditional clothing, and a copy of a statement of a Shan independence state signed by the Burmese government prior to the current Junta, who have ignore it. And there were cobwebs. And dust. Everywhere. Obviously, it's not cared after very well. It may also reflect some ambivalence about Khun Sa within his own community.
The Thai authorities tolerated him for a time when he was useful in fending off supposed communist threats. He was also in a poppy territorial war for control of the trade with the Chinese nationals around Mae Salong (I plan to blog about that soon). Anyway, he began to be a liability and embarrassment when he started knocking off CIA agents snooping around him. He was very open about what he did, and says he used the drug revenues to fight for the liberation of the Shan ethnic group. He's a fallen hero to some Shan. After all, he 'turned himself in' to the Burmese Junta. In turn for shutting up about Shan liberation, he got a nice life with a big house and reportedly got to play golf all the time. The place had a strange feel about it; like you just knew many people were killed in this very spot. You get the sense that Khun Sa's cause is also dying, being eaten away by cobwebs. Perhaps there are better ways for the Shan to go forward other than a separatist state.

The Hall of Opium

Close to Chiang Rai is the infamous 'Golden Triangle' area where three countries, Thailand, Burma, and Loas meet around the Mekong river. The name started with the CIA to the illegal opium trade that runs wild in the area, with production peaking in the 70's. The name has stuck ever since. Tucked in a mountain, alone and off the beaten path is the biggest, baddest, most entertaining non-art museum, I've ever been to: The Hall of Opium.

Did I mention it's super fun? You start out going through an underground tunnel that goes from one side of the mountain to the other side where the museum complex is. The tunnel is a hallway of crazy lighting and psychedelic music that's suppose to make you feel like you're on an opium or heroine trip ... it starts out good, but like a 'comedown' later gets nightmarish. It has a number of fun exhibits that show the history of opium, and also how the local Hill Tribes (minorities) have used it for centuries for medicinal purposes (as they are still allowed to do today). I liked the fact that it covered so much ground, from trade politics to opium paraphernalia.

China has heavily funded the Museum, and that can be seen in several ways: 1. The English is actually correct! 2. The heavy focus on Opium's impact on China especially in the later half of the 19th century, the Opium Wars, and the English who forced it on them, and 3. The dozens of times they mention the word SHAME to talk about opium's negative effects on Chinese society. Just to mention a few more things, there was an interesting video section on drugs and war in the recent times, including American support of military forces (such as Afghanistan's Muhajideen) who fund themselves through opium production. I was also impressed that they didn't shy away from giving the right information about the Siamese Monarchy and opium. The Monarchy controlled and taxed trade and opium dens! And at some points, opium accounted for up to 25% of the monarchy's income.

Of course they didn't spend too much time on the lure of the 'high' people get from drugs ... understandable. But there was a whole two halls dedicated to public service announcements: "The Hall of Excuses" (gotta love that name!) shows the negative consequences of drug abuse, and many high profile celebrities who died or suffered from it. And "The Hall of Reflection" has quotes from the Bible, Buddha, Gandhi and others to inspire people to stop drug abuse and the illegal drug trade.

The Golden Triangle is an appropriate location for the museum, given its history past and present. Yet it's also a good place to promote the project initiated by the Princess Mother. She is the current King Bhumibol's mother, and is loved in the north. The project's goals are to rehabilitate the forests, and to stop the hill tribe people's dependence on the opium trade. So it has focused on education (hence the museum), developing substitutionary crops and training for alternative employment. The trip as an inspiration for my own public service announcement for halloween: a "junky" heroine addict with gross bandages, and bloody veins ... beware kids :)

Chalermchai’s Wat Rong Khun

Chiang Rai is famous for a fantasy-like "White Temple" named Wat Rong Khun and designed by charismatic artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. Apparently he is quite a devout Buddhist and he will dedicate the temple to the King, who has come to back the project.

I was in as much awe this visit as the last. It's certainly the most imaginative temple I've seen. I can't decide if it represents heaven or hell or both. Or whether it would be more appropriate in Disneyland or a Thai ghost story, or if that's all part of the point. In addition to the glittery white roof trimmings jutting out, some of the most fanciful features are the sculptures. When you get to the entrance you're greeted by hands coming out of the ground seemingly pleading for offerings.

Instead of the usual Naga dragon-snakes that guard the entrance of temples in Thailand there are two man-monsters.

If the sculpture and architecture fascinate and frighten, the mural inside the temple are plain unbelievable. The back wall has Chalermchai's depiction of the temptations and desires of this world. Conjoining everything is the demon Mara, who in Buddhist mythology personifies temptation and consistently tries to obstruct the Buddha's quest for enlightenment. The ubiquitous demon manifests itself in many forms: hideous faces, horns, tentacles and other nasty things. My favorite is the snake-turn-gas pipe that crashes into the Twin Towers. Mobile phones, watches, oil, sex, and cars are some of the desirous distractions. There's also a fun cast of characters from pop culture: Java the Hut from Star Wars, Superman, and my personal favorite, Neo from The Matrix!! I assume Neo is a good guy here?? I wish I could have taken pictures (not allowed) but some 'friends' gave me these:

Look into the eye of the evil Mara and what do you see?

Well, you can't see it clearly but it's the face of Osama bin Laden. Guess who's in the other eye? None other than ol' George W Bush.

The temple testifies to the Thai appreciation of diversity and maintaining tradition while incorporating foreign cultural forms.

We actually got to talk to Chalermchai when he was taking a break from his work. He was very nice to talk to us and tell us a bit about the mural. But we didn't have time to ask any detailed questions, as many people came over to speak to him and get autographs. He did say the mural will be one wall-to-wall piece. Next he plans to paint the side walls of the temple which he says will depict the the shedding of desires, and finish painting the front of the temple with it's beautiful Buddha at the center. So it seems to me he is trying to direct the gaze of the viewer. At first the gaze naturally starts by looking backward at the sensational insanity of the world and all its trappings. After this sensory overload the gaze moves to the side murals that show more and more detachment from the world. Until finally, the gaze can rest on the tranquility of the Buddha.

Mr. Chalermchai in his blue rap-around paints with JLoh and I.

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Red Tips | Hours: Anyone can visit the temple, and it's open daily from 8am-6pm. Location / Directions: It is well-known, so ask any Thai person for directions to 'Wat Rong Khun'; or your driver, taxi, or tuk-tuk can get you there easily. The temple is about 13 kms from Chiang Rai, right off the main highway to Chiang Mai (coming from Chiang Rai, you can't miss the glittery temple on the left side, turn on the road to Khun Korn waterfalls). For a good list of prices and places to stay in the area, visit Chiang Rai Hotels.

The Bizarre in Chiang Rai

I recently made a trip to Chiang Rai and as always went to the Night Bazaar open market and food area. I also saw some interesting and bizarre names for establishments while walking around. Most amusing was the sign advertising for "The Womb," "The Inn Come Hotel," and "The Sperm." Throw in "Thai Massage" and ... anyone trying to make a baby? Hilarious. Chiang Rai is the most fun and chilled out Night Bazzar I've been to in Thailand. It's the hangout spot for locals both young and old, rich and poor, with all kinds of food from local worms to sushi, performances from traditional northern thai music to Kathoey shows, and people selling everything from tacky-thai kitsch to hip contemporary art.
Night Bazaar--never a complete experience in Thailand without a Kathoey Show, or thai 'lady boys' found performing all over the country.

That's Right. Red Sox Rule

Congratulations to the Red Sox! Wish I were in Boston again right now.
The sweep is sweet. Again.
I've always been a baseball fan. But growing up on a small Caribbean island, with exactly 11 channels on tv, I had no choice but to become an Atlanta Braves follower--thanks to Mr. Ted Turner's TBS, which was all the baseball I could get. That is until I went to Boston for grad school and was sucked into the superstitious cult obsession that forms the Red Sox Nation. What sucked me in was not the children praying, or grown men kneeling and crying at dire moments in a game, or even the hatred of the Yankees as Satan. What did it was that my church was in the Fenway Park neighborhood and gave the ministers free season tickets as a gesture of neighborly goodwill. So I got to go to a number of games. It's a charming old park with great acoustics and you always feel you're right on the field. I even managed to warm up a few friends to the game at Fenway (yes, that's you Silivren).

A silly nickname for me, please

Thailand is a land of silly nicknames, or 'play names' as they call them, and just about everyone has one (see this article from IHT). Actual Thai names are such long testaments most people only know the names of people close to them. That means the most accomplished people will introduce themselves as 'Bird' (nok) or 'Shrimp' (khun) or 'Chicken' (guy) or 'Pig' (moo)! I got carried away with animal names ... But English numbers are a trend too like 'First,' and then there's any number of letters: 'A,' 'D' or 'M.' It's also nice that they are gender neutral and just plain funny.

And I want one! If only because the accent butchers my name--having no 'v' sound, people pronounce my name with a horrid drawn out 'w' which ends up sounding like wwwwaaaaaaaaa. So I've chosen some for this blog: 'A' is common for the first born of the family, as am I, so I may refer to myself as 'A,' or aj. for ajarn as some students call me. Or Daeng for Red, or just aj.D. Some of my colleagues have called me Nong Suay and Warunee, but I just can't mange to say, 'Hi, I'm Beautiful Sister,' or 'Pretty Girl!' Anyway, some friends here get a kick out habitually of mispronouncing my name. So I'll have to try new names on the next person I meet.

Swirling Dervishes in Celebration of Rumi

A wonderful celebration of the 800 year anniversary of Rumi came to town, put together by the mahalai I work at and UNESCO. I’ve always wanted to see the beautiful dancing of this mystical tradition, so it was exciting to have this opportunity. There is a significant Turkish community around town, and for some reason many students come here. The hall was jam packed, and everyone quite excited. Unwittingly, but in good Thai fashion, there was a hodgepodge of different traditions to observe:

-First, we listened to some soothing Instrumental Christian Music.
-Second, a Muslim Sufi Whirling Dervishes performance.
-Finally, we stood up for a song that commemorates a Buddhist King.

Luckily, I don’t think that many people noticed that the instrumental music was Christian, or else they didn’t care so much. In any case, all of us got a little feel for three different traditions in a friendly and tolerant celebratory setting.

Wat Doi Suthep

I'm starting my web blog with life, work and travel currently based in Chiang Mai, Thailand. And what better symbol of Thai culture can you start with than Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep? It is one of the most important temples in Thailand, and a popular pilgrimage for Thai Buddhist. Legend has it that monks looking for a proper resting place for Buddha relics, placed them on a White Elephant - the animal thought to embody spiritual guidance and luck – who took it up to the Doi Suthep. This mountaintop location in the midst of a national forest looks over the city of Chiang Mai, and the people are said to look up to it.

The first thing you see is the golden chedi or stupa, which houses the relics, in the center of the Temple grounds:

Murals surround the entire temple, providing a pictorial narrative of the Buddha’s life. This one shows the miraculous Birth of the Buddha (The Mother, Mayadevi, has just given birth to the future Buddha standing up; and at birth, he takes seven full steps on lotus buds then and speaks).

I don’t know why people don’t pay attention to the murals; for young Buddhist, they are an important way to teach about the Buddha’s life. It’s the main thing I show students on tours of the temple.